Spaghetti Bolognaise is an American creation – designed to please American-Italian workers who wanted a quick one-plate dish. In Italy, a good ragu Bolognese is not served with spaghetti; it's served with tagliatelle. There's no definitive recipe when making a ragu but cooking with a piece of meat rather than mince is what elevates the sauce. Start with a pork shoulder and slow-cook it until it falls apart. Meanwhile, fry off garlic, onion, celery and tomatoes, rosemary, sage and thyme. You can also use a mixture of pork, veal and a little bit of yearling beef. It's the subtle nuances – like nutmeg or milk – that will make this dish your own.